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3/26/2019 7:52:52 AM
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It takes guts to open your own restaurant. You can fine-tune the building, and hone the menu, and do everything else needful to serve tasty food in a comfortable space, only to have the most business-annihilating February in recorded history punch you in the nose. The crew at Buffalo Supper Club are Black Rock tough.

When we visited, on a night so cold it hurt to breathe, their smiles warmed us even before they apologized for the space heaters. The place used to be a neighborhood bar with a largely tavern menu. It's been remodeled and freshened up inside. The bar area is home to a comfy couch in front of a gas fireplace that made me wish we could eat dinner there.

Owner Kyle DeLuca grew up nearby in Riverside, and has aimed his place at an upscale casual audience looking for something more than corner pizzeria and tavern standards.

Buffalo Supper Club owner Kyle DeLuca presents lemon-pepper wings, one of six different specialty flavors on the menu. (Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News)

The beeping of a smoke detector that needed a battery lasted throughout the meal. At our corner table, it was cold enough that some guests kept their coats on. Later in the evening, we got our own space heater aimed under the table, which helped.

We looked over the laminated illustrated menu cards, noting dishes such as salmon fillet with mango salsa as well as Puerto Rican entrees like pernil, or slow-roasted pork shoulder. Our server offered us a verbal rundown of wine and beer, a small selection, but at least it included Rusty Chain. He apologized for the cold room, and said the kitchen exhaust was sucking the heat out of the dining room. We ordered after he clarified that the fried chicken dinner was available, now that the chef had finished thawing out the chicken.

The first dish to arrive was pastelillos and tostones ($6.95), a Puerto Rican appetizer combo of fried turnovers stuffed with seasoned ground beef, and fried plantain chips. Three pastelillos were plump and crisp, with a savory hit of cilantro in the filling. The chewy tostones were good with the creamy tomato dip with a serious whack of toasted garlic.

The full rack of ribs with cornbread and Cinnabon-esque fries from Buffalo Supper Club. (Andrew Galarneau/Special to the News)

Onion rings ($5.95) were an able appetizer, stout rings battered and adeptly fried before being dusted with cheese and served with seasoned mayonnaise. French onion soup ($4.95) was covered with bubbly browned cheese and filled with onions Marlboro Cigarettes For Sale. It hadn't developed much caramelized onion flavor, but was embraced as an antidote to the shivers.

Garlic Parmesan wings rolled around on the pit ($9.95) were resoundingly crisp and delicious, with a touch of smoke from the slight charring. They came with celery, carrots and blue cheese dressing.

When Cat's fried chicken dinner ($14.95) arrived, its bronze exterior was a sight to behold, and the flavor backed it up. Crackling crust and tender meat made for a bone-gnawing good time. The side of green beans with smoked turkey was underflavored Wholesale Cigarettes For Resale, not particularly smoky. Macaroni and cheese had plenty of cheese-browned edges that come from being baked in a pan Wholesale Newport Cigarettes In Usa, but like the green beans, it was lukewarm.

A closer look at the lemon-pepper wings. (Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News)

Salmon with mango salsa ($22.95) was well executed, a delicately seared piece of moist fish with a bright, tropical topping of fresh mango salsa that included tomato, scallion and red onion. Grilled asparagus were well cooked, and the risotto underneath was cheesy rice that didn't have any bite left in the grains.

Salmon with mango salsa is a dinner from Buffalo Supper Club. (Andrew Galarneau/Special to the News)

My pernil dinner ($12.95) had a lot on the plate. Shredded pork was joined by yellow rice with pigeon peas, tostones, a dab of lettuce and tomato salad, a small bowl of stewed beans and potatoes, and a ramekin of that garlicky tomato sauce. I dumped the beans on the rice and tucked in. The pork wasn't as velvety-tender as Niagara Café's, but it wasn't bad. The rice was spot on, with distinct, firm grains, but the potatoes with the beans were crunchy.

Our chief meat eater had the full rack of ribs ($23.95), which came with sweet potato fries and cornbread. The ribs were lacquered with sweet sauce but were chewy, with each bite leaving meat clinging to the bone. The cornbread was dry, as cornbread often is. The fresh-cut sweet potato fries were coated in a sweet buttery glaze that reminded me of Cinnabon icing, making them a decadent treat. We took ribs home. The Cinnabon fries never stood a chance.

The slice of carrot cake with cream cheese filling from Buffalo Supper Club. (Andrew Galarneau/Special to the News)

For dessert, we ordered banana pudding ($4.50), carrot cake and chocolate cake (both $6). The pudding was a satisfying homestyle mash-up of sliced bananas, whipped topping, crushed vanilla wafers and pudding. The carrot cake, surprisingly light, had a cheesecake layer in the middle and was scarfed up quickly Newport Cigarettes Website. Chocolate cake had plenty of dark icing but the cake was dry, so it survived our meeting.

Once it warms up, diners won't consider keeping their coats on for dinner. The beeping smoke detector was eventually silenced with a battery, DeLuca said.

The restaurant is a work in progress, but if it continues to improve Cheapest Marlboro 100 Cigarettes, Buffalo Supper Club stands as a legitimate upscale casual offering on the Black Rock-Riverside border. Its menu shows streaks of excellence, and the restaurant already has survived a season that would have killed a place with less heart.
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